When it comes to Africa, ‘newsworthy’ and the words ‘conflict’, ‘disease’, ‘starvation’ and ‘rock-star adoptions’ seem to be interchangeable. We hardly ever read empowering stories. Really, when was the last time you read or saw a positive story in the mainstream media? A story that didn’t suggest danger or impending doom? Or that didn’t include endangered animals?
First timers to Africa (as I was, prior to coming to Ghana) tend to lob Ghana in the same old boat as those African nations that make headlines for the worst reasons (as I did), as if there were no cultural, ethnic, geographic or linguistic diversity among its 53 nations. Imagine lobbing Scots, Irish, English, and Welsh together. Talk about how to piss off a Welshman.
While there is no safe destination on this planet, some are safer than others. But even Japan, a nation with one of the lowest crime rates in the world, has its fair share of dangers: riding your bicycle into oncoming vehicles (indeed), masturbating exhibitionists (happened to—passive form of verb very important here—to two friends and I once, and several others on separate occasions; it’s a Japanese thing), earthquakes (fortunately not a biggie), and eating the wrong parts of a puffer fish (I managed to miss the deadly bits) all pose danger.
Ghana is poor, for sure. It’s in Africa, too. But there is no civil war, no famine, no widespread fighting, no dictatorship, no terrorism or bombings, no religious hatred, no ethnic cleansing, no giraffes, no zebras, and no bloody toilets. In short, it defies the Africa stereotype (aside from the toilets). But, Reuters doesn’t give a flying football about the lack of loos in Ghana, so Ghana doesn’t make the news. Alright. I’m exaggerating slightly. I believe there was coverage during last year’s election and, perhaps, Obama’s visit.
So, it’s not a war zone; the chances of being shot by an AK47 or stepping on a landmine are nil. But it does have some very Ghanaian dangers that can pose threats to one’s safety.
This is my take on them, and please feel free to add your own stories or tips in the comments below:
1. Health—Mosquitoes: Malaria, a mosquito-borne disease, is the bane of my (and many others’) life. There is nothing cool or traveler’s-rite-of-passage-ish about it. I wrote a post about how it feels here. Once you experience it, you realise that sub-Saharan Africa definitely got the geographical wooden spoon. The bad news: it is ‘as common as catching a cold.’ The good news: it’s easy to do something about.
The standard rule is to take antimalarials for one month before arrival so your system can develop resistance, and one month after leaving. The month after leaving rule is to kill parasitic cycles that could develop into malaria over time, later. Which is exactly what happened to me. I had a raft of blood tests at a London clinic one week after leaving Ghana and they were all negative. So, I stopped taking my anti-malarials. Three weeks later, working in Cambodia, I developed severe malaria—39/40/41 degree fevers every second night, hallucinations, vomiting— and was ‘evacuated’ to hospital in Thailand for treatment. Hospitalization in Phnom Penh and Bangkok and the flights cost more than $12,000. Fortunately, my travel insurance (around US$400) covered everything. For what it’s worth, it was World Nomads and I still use them; they came through when it really mattered. They also came through more recently, no hassles, great service. I thoroughly recommend them. And I ain't getting no kick-back for this.
One time, a volunteer friend was experiencing spontaneous sweats, fever, vomiting, tiredness, and diarrhea, so we were tested for malaria; her test was negative. The following day she was ill again so we visited a different clinic. She had a seizure during the consultation. She had severe malaria. So much for the test.
I went to a clinic the day after my first fever in Phnom Penh. The malaria test was negative. He told me I had Dengue Fever (even though that was also negative and I explained I just came from Africa) and since there is no cure for Dengue, I had to ride it out. I put up with three more fevers and then sought another opinion at another clinic. They kept me for two nights. Their tests were negative. So they sent me to Bangkok. I had three more fevers in Bangkok and their tests were also all negative. Altogether, I experienced 8 nights (every 48 hours over 16 days) with no positive malaria test. It was after I cursed, in no uncertain terms, at the doctor on day 17 that he agreed, based on the clinical picture, I must have malaria, and gave me the drugs. I stabilized after 24 hours. It was a tough time: alone, in a new country, new culture, and starting a new job (which is why the insurer were doubly brilliant: nothing was a problem with them). If I had kept taking my drugs for the entire month after leaving (and not accepted that the negative test in London meant I was free of malaria parasites), I might not have developed serious malaria. Maybe you can learn from my mistakes.
So, the moral is: a negative blood test may be wrong; it doesn’t guarantee you are malaria-free. If you are presenting the clinical symptoms, you should seek treatment. You can go to a hospital or clinic. They’ll test you. Even if negative, demand a prescription anyway. However, I’m pragmatic. I don’t want to spend hours waiting at a hospital for a test that may be wrong so when I feel the symptoms coming on I go to the pharmacy and buy the drugs for around $5.00. The brand that seems to work best now is Lonarte—any of the versions. If the drugs have no impact, it could be something else. Typhoid shares the same symptoms and I once mistook typhoid for malaria, only to get worse after taking malaria drugs. The blood test was positive for typhoid. Incidentally, typhoid is treated with 2 x 500 gm of Cipro, 1 morning, 1 night, for 14 days—also available over the counter. Please don't take this as a replacement for professional medical experience and consultation.
Roughly speaking, about 1 in 5 volunteers I worked with got malaria. Some never got it, others, like me, got it regularly. We took the various brands: Doxy, Larium, and so on. None of them are perfect. We sprayed ourselves at night and slept under nets, but it only takes one bite. The good news, as I said, is that it’s easy to cure provided you do something about it when you notice the symptoms. Don’t worry, don’t freak out or panic, just act. If you wish to see a doctor, fine. It’s not a bad idea to keep a written record of medical visits.
Regarding general health and travel, see your travel doctor at least a month, preferably longer, before coming to Ghana and follow their advice on general and Africa-specific vaccinations (there is no malaria vaccine), and which antimalarial drugs would be best. For the record, it’s much cheaper to buy them here than it is in developed countries. I can buy a sheet of 10 doxy for one dollar. You might want to check the Centre for Disease Control’s latest updates for Ghana here to learn about malaria in detail and other mosquito-borne diseases and health issues in Ghana:
I’m looking forward to the day when a mosquito bite simply means an itchy bite.
Vehicles: Most nights I say a prayer of thanks for good health, friends and family, and that I haven’t been mangled in a horrible road accident. Indeed, I don’t practice any one religion, but the roads in Ghana have turned me into a practicing prayer. And I’m not picky about which God hears my trotro prayers. I had so many close-calls and passed so many serious accidents that I updated my will—that’s how bad it is. The Vice President, John Mahama, was on GTV yesterday morning at a community where a terrible dirt road was about to be paved. He said that the rutted road forces vehicles to drive at 20-30 km/hour and there has not been a single road accident there. But he lamented that once it’s tarred drivers will speed and he fears the ‘carnage’ that will occur. It was quite candid of him, and it gives you a sense of the gravity of the situation.
The Bad news: Taxis, trotros and buses are virtually unavoidable. The good news: There isn’t much good news on this one. I’m sorry. Drivers bribe officials to get licenced without sitting for a driving test and until that situation is brought under control, I can’t see it improving. Apparently, it’s the same across much of Africa and it certainly was in Cambodia and Vietnam.
A few months ago on my trip to Accra, the STC (which I took because it gives the impression of being safe) driver fell asleep at the wheel and veered so close to an oncoming semi-trailer that the side mirror smashed off. On the way back from Accra, the STC driver over took on a blind rise over solid double lines into a row of oncoming cars and trucks that were forced to shift to the far right to make space for us on the wrong side of the road. I think most travelers in Ghana would attest that this standard of driving is quite normal. I have countless similar stories, mostly involving trotros, blind corners or hills, oncoming vehicles, rain, and high speeds.
Because the worst might just happen, have some form of ID on you. Not necessarily your passport, but a printed page with name, contacts in Ghana and home abroad would be helpful. It would help to know your blood group too.
Highway robbery along remote roads is becoming more common. A Ghanaian friend lost cash and valuables last week on the road between Tamale and Wa. I heard about a daylight trotro robbery between Bolga and Navrongo where three travelers lost cameras, cash and passports. I have not heard of physical threats occurring during the highway robberies, but I’d like to know if anyone has. It seems that as long as you hand your stuff over, you are not harmed. Don’t carry anything you don’t mind losing on trotro journeys.
If a driver is being careless, chances are Ghanaians will shout at them. Don’t be afraid to shout yourself. If worst comes to worst, you can always get off. I learnt to say ‘slow down’ in Twi and it works too. Life seems cheap on Ghana’s roads, so if you value yours, speak up.
Crowd situations: Pick pocketing and stampeding are problems. There have been a few stampedes at football games over the years that resulted in many deaths. Please be careful if you’re attending a game or any event in large crowds like a concert where everyone might suddenly push to get in or out.
Pick-pockets are rife in crowded areas. I’ve seen it and heard about it. I kicked guys off me one day in a crowd and saw others do it plenty of times too. One sneaky thing thieves do is slash your bag straps or the underneath of your bag, so hold your bag tightly in crowds.
The ocean current and surf: I was never a big beach girl, but I knew enough about rips and waves to manage. Even if the waves in Sydney were large, the sea overall was predictable. We’re spoilt with the whole ‘swim between the flags’ thing. While waves on Busua, Axim and a few other beaches I visited are much smaller, they are wildly unpredictable. You might pop up after ducking under a wave to find another one hitting you side on and pulling your legs in the opposite direction. You have to keep moving around to stay in a safe zone. The undertow and rips are fierce.
My friend, a strong swimmer, got caught in one rip, and struggled to get out of it. It seemed to shift and suddenly I was caught in it and I really struggled. I know you’re supposed to go out to sea, but there was no way in hell I was going to float off the coast, so I struggled and eventually crashed on the beach, exhausted. Unless you’re an experienced surf lifesaver or ocean swimmer, swim with caution.
Fufu: If you try to swallow chunks of fufu whole, as is the cultural imperative, you might choke to death. Swallow with caution. (Alright, I had to lighten things up a bit.) Global Mamas shop in Osu (next to Koala) was selling a range of T-shirts on which ‘I chew my fufu’ was printed. You might want to check them out.
General places to avoid:
Kokrobite Beach is notorious for daylight and especially night time robberies. A bunch of small boys will surround you, pull a knife and demand your back pack. Even male acquaintances were robbed this way. My friend and I thought we’d have a bit of fun and take a backpack full of juju and our broken camera for would-be robbers. Feel free to use our idea if you wish. Simple solution: don’t go. There are so many other nice beaches where robbery hasn’t become the norm. My favourite beaches are Brenu (past Elmina), Axim Beach Resort’s beach, and Busua.
University: Like most campuses world-wide, don’t roam around at night unless you’re in a large group, definitely not alone or with just one other person.
Accra
Nima/Mamobey area at night. Be alert during the day. Pig Farm (yes, it’s a name) at night. Ashaiman at night. Kwame Nkrumah Circle area and Kaneshie by day and night for bag and phone snatching; don’t be alarmed, but don’t let anyone carry your bags and hold on tight. Osu main street at night.
Kumasi
Racecourse area at night. Kejetia trotro station and market area at night for bag and phone snatching and occasionally people physically trying to stop you. Just push them away and keep walking. Shout if you have to. I never had a problem there, but keep your wits about you. Bantama is getting a bad reputation at night for thuggery It used to be my favourite hang out.
Cape Coast
Along the beaches at night—just don’t do it unless you’re with body guards (not the guys who like to sweet talk girls at Oasis or any of those who approach travelers on the street. It’s a notorious area for robberies).
Around the Castles—the area and beaches around there are known for petty robberies.
Outside Oasis and the back roads that lead from Oasis to the town centre at night. Stick to Commercial Road: the long road that extends from the Castle past the crab and up to the market, but be careful around the Castle/Restaurant area at night.
Around the crab at night and Hacienda. You can have fun, but take care.
Kotakoraba taxi station at night—not too bad, but be careful.
Elmina:
Shell Elmina during festivals when all the young boys in the area converge to dance.
The SSNIT building past Shell on the right side of the highway at night is not a safe area. Elmina Castle area at night.
(Having said this, I’ve broken pretty much every one of the Elmina and Cape rules, without being harmed, but I attribute that to dumb luck.)
I have only been robbed twice in Ghana. My phone was pick-pocketed (because I was stupido and left it in an outer backpack pocket) in Kaneshie; I asked for that, really. And I was robbed by three men when I least suspected it—in broad daylight in a taxi one morning heading to work along the highway from Elmina to Cape. In retrospect it was a set up, but I’d never experienced such a thing. But I got mad, shouted a lot, hit them over the head (lame but it worked) and got my stuff back. It was a surreal experience (and another exciting chapter for the book). But I was lucky; try not to be in that situation in the first place.
The point is, if you don’t see a weapon, or you’re not physically threatened, don’t be afraid to fight back and shout and make a lot of noise. If other people are around, there’s a good chance they’ll come to your aid. Ghanaians detest thieves and people who break into other’s homes, uninvited, in particular.
Upper East and West
Comparatively, the Upper East and West Regions are less touristed and the hassle factor is virtually zero in towns compared with, say, Kumasi or Accra. However, you should keep your wits about you at night and traveling in remote areas.
Bolgatanga:
It’s unsafe to travel late at night between Bolga and Navrongo or Tamale due to an increase in high way robbery. Even when we traveled on the STC from Bolga to Tamale mid-morning a group of adolescent boys blocked the road holding machetes. The driver put his foot down and sped up as if to run them over. The kids jumped aside at the last minute.
Bawku:
It is a conflict zone and you enter Bawku at your own risk. However, the conflict occurs in bouts, weeks, sometimes months apart. Most times, if you’re just passing through you wouldn’t know there was a conflict. There is a heavy police and military presence if something should happen.
Between Mole and Larabanga:
It says so in the guide book and for a reason. That little stretch of road is a playground for thieves. Avoid it.
While all this may be scary, on balance, malaria is treatable, trotros are, well, better than violent gangs, and crowds, rips and currents are avoidable. I’ve felt safer here than many other places in the world. Parts of Sydney and London, with all that testosterone and alcohol, feel more threatening. Most Ghanaians hardly drink alcohol or smoke so that whole blokey culture is virtually non-existent. Truly ugly, violent crime is far less common than in many capital cities in developed countries. Overall, I have felt very safe and blessed. But I am superstitious. Touch wood. Touch Baobab! I’ll be praying tonight too—for finally having posted this post.
If you want to read more about health issues, I recommend the Travel Doctor in the UK for information in simple language.
The photo is licenced as free to use from Flickr.